The Rolex Submariner started as – and still is – a diver’s watch, but many fans of the model don’t use it for sport but love its iconic design and look. And it’s a clear favorite that’s still in production nearly 60 years later. The Submariner has seen some significant aesthetic changes over the years as it has continued to improve and innovate.
It has seen new movements, bezel features, and significantly improved water resistance, just a few changes. Still, it is essential to note that many reference numbers match models that are slightly, or in some cases, very different from previous offerings.
Today’s Submarines can be identified by their “Mercedes” pointer, which has a round piece near the hand. Earlier models only had a plain pencil hand, while the second hand had a small lollipop at the top.
The picture below looks more like today’s Submarines with distinctive new hands. One thing worth noting is the length of the hands; in the later models, the minute hand extends to the octopus ring.
The movement of the Submariner faced a significant evolution. In earlier years, the reference 1680 was equipped with a self-winding caliber 1575 and a shockproof mechanism. In 1972 replica Rolex added a stop-second tool to this movement. However, 1680 required the hand to be turned to advance the date – one day at a time.
Today, the latest generation of Submariner and Submariner Date models are made with the caliber 3230 – to be released in 2020 – and the caliber 3235, a self-winding mechanical movement developed in-house by Rolex.
Their construction, manufacturing, and innovative features make them precise and reliable. They are equipped with the exclusive blue Parachrom hairspring, which is ten times more accurate than a conventional hairspring in the event of shocks. Both movements have a power reserve of an impressive 70 hours.
Today, you can buy copy Rolex Submariners in yellow gold, white gold, two-tone (yellow gold and steel), Oyster steel, and stainless steel, but initially, you could only buy them in stainless steel. This was because drivers didn’t want to risk deep dives with 18-carat gold.
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