The definition of “vintage” has evolved significantly over the past decade. What once referred to watches 30 years or older now often begins at the 20-year mark, with many modern Rolex models – such as the Rolex Kermit with its iconic “Flat 4” bezel – falling into the “collectible” category. These so-called “neo-vintage” pieces, which represent a shift in collectors’ interests, are increasingly sought after for their unique characteristics and limited availability.
A prime example of such a collectible is the “Flat 4” bezel on the 16610LV Submariner, a feature only found on the earliest examples of this model. Later, Rolex updated the design to the “Sharp 4” bezel with a more refined numeral. This subtle change has sparked significant interest among collectors, and variations like these have carved out a niche for modern classic Rolexes. For those interested in this specific transition, we have a detailed guide on the differences between the Flat 4 and Sharp 4 bezels.
However, while these models are highly collectible, improper servicing or modifications can drastically reduce their value. Unfortunately, vintage Rolexes, and collectible watches in general, have long been at risk of devaluation due to ill-advised updates or insensitive repairs. Rolex’s own service center, despite its reputation for excellence, has historically contributed to this problem. In its efforts to restore watches to “like-new” condition, Rolex has often replaced original parts – such as dials, hands, and bezels – with non-original “service” components. This practice, while intended to maintain the watch’s functionality, has inadvertently stripped away much of its intrinsic value.
A clear example of this can be found in replica Rolex’s recent coffee table book on the Submariner, where many of the watches featured are shown with service dials. While these dials may look pristine, true collectors typically avoid watches with such replacements, as they lack the originality that makes these watches valuable. It is important to note that Rolex’s policy does not include returning the original parts when a watch is serviced and components are replaced, further complicating efforts to maintain a watch’s authenticity.
Paul Altieri, founder and CEO of Replica Watches and one of the world’s foremost Rolex collectors, offers crucial advice for anyone owning a vintage Rolex: “For any vintage or collectible Rolex, I would highly recommend keeping it all original – this includes the dial, hands, and bezel. Additionally, avoid polishing the case.” Altieri, known for his pristine collection of all-original Rolex pieces, emphasizes the importance of retaining every detail in its original state.
When it comes to the bracelet, Altieri suggests that polishing or restoring it is less critical than preserving the watch’s core components. However, the bracelet should ideally not be replaced. It is not uncommon to see vintage Rolexes where key elements – like the dial, hands, or bezel – have been swapped out, or where the case has been heavily polished. These changes, though often made with good intentions, can diminish the watch’s value and historical significance.
Purchasing a collectible vintage Rolex today is a serious investment. Modifications, upgrades, or repairs that alter the original specifications can render a watch effectively “damaged” in the eyes of many collectors. Preserving a Rolex in its original condition is essential, not only to maintain its value but also to respect its place in the history of horology.